Collected & edited by Amorin Mello

This is one of many posts on Chequamegon History exploring the original La Pointe Band Reservations of La Pointe County on Chequamegon Bay, now known as the Bad River and Red Cliff Reservations.  Specifically, today’s post is about the 1856 Reservation for Chief Buffalo’s subdivision of the La Pointe Band and how it got selected in accordance with the Sixth Clause of the Second Article of the 1854 Treaty with the Chippewa at La Pointe:

1854 Treaty with the Chippewa at La Pointe

Map of La Pointe Band Reservations:
334 – Bad River Reservation
335 – La Pointe Fishing Reservation
341 – Chief Buffalo’s Reservation
342 – Red Cliff Reservation
18th Annual Report of the Bureau of American Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution 1896-’97
Printed by U.S. Congress in 1899

ARTICLE 2. The United States agree to set apart and withhold from sale, for the use of the Chippewas of Lake Superior, the following-described tracts of land, viz:

6th [Clause]. The Ontonagon band and that subdivision of the La Pointe band of which Buffalo is chief, may each select, on or near the lake shore, four sections of land, under the direction of the President, the boundaries of which shall be defined hereafter. And being desirous to provide for some of his connections who have rendered his people important services, it is agreed that the chief Buffalo may select one section of land, at such place in the ceded territory as he may see fit, which shall be reserved for that purpose, and conveyed by the United States to such person or persons as he may direct.

Map of “Tract embraced in blue lines reserved by order of President of 25 September 1855 to be withdrawn from market and reserved for the Ontonagon Band of Chippewa Indians on a “low sand beach & good fishing ground”.
Central Map File No. 638 (Tube No. 138)
NAID: 232923886 cites “La Pointe L.584-1855”.

The Ontonagon Band and Chief Buffalo’s Subdivision of the La Pointe Band got lumped together in this clause, so let’s review the Ontonagon Band first.  Less than one year after the 1854 Treaty, the Ontonagon Band selected four square miles for their Reservation as approved by President Franklin Pierce’s Executive Order of September 25, 1855.  Today the Ontonagon Band Reservation still has its original shape and size from 1855 despite heavy “checkerboarding” of its landownership over time.

In comparison to the Ontonagon Band Reservation, the history of how Chief Buffalo’s Reservation got selected is not so straightforward.  Despite resisting and surviving the Sandy Lake Tragedy and Ojibwe Removal, making an epic trip to meet the President at Washington D.C., and securing Reservations as permanent homelands for the Chippewa Bands in the 1854 Treaty, Chief Buffalo of La Pointe died in 1855 before being able to select four square miles for his Subdivsion of the La Pointe Bands.

Fortunately, President Franklin Pierce’s Executive Order of February 21, 1856 withheld twenty-two square miles of land near the Apostle Islands from federal public land sales, allowing Chief Buffalo’s Estate to select four of those twenty-two square miles for their Reservation without competition from squatters and other land speculators, while other prime real estate in the ceded territory of La Pointe County was being surveyed and sold to private landowners by the United States General Land Office.

This 1856 Reservation of twenty-two square miles for Chief Buffalo’s Estate set the stage for what would eventually become the Red Cliff Reservation.  We will return to this 1856 Reservation for Chief Buffalo’s Estate in several upcoming posts exploring more records about Red Cliff and the other La Pointe Band Reservations.

Maps marked “A” showing certain lands reserved by the 1854 Treaty:
Central Map File No. 793 (Tube 446)
NAID: 232924228 cites “La Pointe L.579-1855″.
Central Map File No. 816 (Tube 298)
NAIDs: 232924272 & 50926136 cites “Res. Chippewa L.516-1855”.

 


 

1878 Copy of President Franklin Pierce’s Executive Order of February 26, 1856 for Chief Buffalo’s Subdivision (aka “Red Cliff”).
NAID: 117092990

Office of Indian Affairs.

(Miscellaneous)

L.801.17.1878

Copy of Ex. Order of Feby. 21. 1856.

Chippewas (Red Cliff.)

Wisconsin.

Enc. in G.L.O. letter of Nov 23, 1878 (above file mark.)

in answer to office letter of Nov. 18, 1878.

Ex. Order File.

 


 

Secretary of the Interior
Robert McClelland

Department of the Interior
February 21, 1856

 

Sir,

I herewith return the diagram enclosed in your letter of the 20th inst, covering duplicates of documents which accompanied your letter of the 6th Sept. last, as well as a copy of the latter, the originals of which were submitted to the President in letter from the Department of the 8th Sept. last and cannot now be found.

You will find endorsements on said diagram explanatory of the case and an order of the President of this date for the withdrawal of the land in question for Indian purposes as recommended.

Respectfully
Your obt. Servt

R McClelland

Secretary

To

Hon Thos A Hendrick

Commissioner of the

General Land Office

 


 

(Copy)

 

General Land Office

September 6, 1855

 

Hon R. McClelland
Sec. of Interior

 

Sir:

Enclosed I have the honor to submit an abstract from the Acting Commissioner of Indian Affairs letter of the 5th instant, requesting the withdrawal of certain lands for the Chippewa Indians in Wisconsin, under the Treaty of September 30th, 1854, referred by the Department to this office on the 5th. instant, with orders to take immediate steps for the withdrawal of the lands from sale.

Detail of 1856 Reservation in pencil on a map marked A.
Central Map File No. 816 (Tube 298)
NAIDs: 232924272 & 50926136 cites “Res. Chippewa L.516-1855”.

In obedience to the above order I herewith enclose a map marked A. Showing by the blue shades thereon, the Townships and parts of Townships desired to be reserved, no portion of which are yet in market, to wit:

Township 51 N. of Range 3 West 4th Prin. Mer. Wis.

N.E. ¼ of Town 51 N ” 4 ” ” ” “.

Township 52 ” ” 3 & 4 ” ” ” “.

For the reservation of which, until the contemplated Selections under the 6th Clause of the Chippewa Treaty of 30th September 1854 can be made, I respectfully recommend that the order of the President may be obtained.

The requisite reports on the subject of the new surveys, and respecting preemption claims, referred to in the same order, will be prepared and communicated at an early day.

I am respectfully
Your Ob’t Serv’t

Thos. A. Hendricks

Commissioner

 


 

Department of the Interior

Feb. 20. 1856

Detail of 1856 Reservation in blue on duplicate of the original“.
NAID: 117092990

This plat represents by the blue shade, certain land to be withdrawn with a view to a reservation, under Chippewa Treaty of 30 Sept 1854, and as more particularly described in Commissioner of the General Land Office in letter of 6th Sept 1855.  The subject was referred to the President for his sanction of the recommendation made in Secretary’s letter of 8th Sept 1855 and the original papers cannot now be found.  This is a duplicate of the original, received in letter of Comm’r of the General Land Office of this date and is recommended to the President for his sanction of the withdrawal desired.

R. McClelland

Secretary

 

1856 Reservation in red and modern Red Cliff in brown. Although different in shape, both are roughly twenty-two square miles in size.

 

14th United States President
Franklin Pierce

February 21st 1856

Let the withdrawal be made as recommended.

Franklin Pierce

Collected & edited by Amorin Mello

This is the third post in a series featuring The Ashland News items about La Pointe’s infamous Judge John William Bell, written mainly by his son-in-law George Francis Thomas née Gilbert Fayette Thomas a.k.a G.F.T.  In today’s post we explore stories about real estate transactions negotiated between Judge Bell and Julius Austrian.

… continued from King No More.

 


 

The Ashland News
Wednesday, January 11, 1888, Page 5

 

STORIES OF JUDGE BELL

HOW HE FOOLED THE AUSTRIAN BROTHERS IN A LAND DEAL.

 

“Incidents in the life of Judge John W. Bell. – A Half Century in Old La Pointe – by Geo. Francis Thomas.”

Such is the proposed title to a forth-coming historical work which will prove wonderfully interesting, especially to the older residents in this vicinity.  The author begins with the year 1835, when the brig “John Jacob Astor,” the first vessel built upon the shores of Lake Superior, first cast her anchor in the bay at La Pointe, and ends with the death of the old pioneer, John W. Bell, which occurred but a few days since.  In speaking of the pioneer the author says:

“From the day that Mr. Bell stepped ashore at La Pointe from ‘The Astor,’ June 23, 1835, to the day of his death, he was a character possessing a most positive individuality; and it was not until his later years, and then when he had become financially distressed, that his wonderful spirit became at all broken; but even then he was never known to as a favor.”

In 1853, Julius Austrian grabbed ownership of all the land in La Pointe, and began selling land back to existing property owners in La Pointe.  A year later Austrian platted the village days before the 1854 Treaty of La Pointe.

The old judge, or “Squire” as he was usually called, was always ready to relate some incident of early days in which he was usually a participant.  There are also a great many equally interesting incidents related by others, where the old judge would not justify his telling the story himself.  The author says:

Detail from Julius Austrian’s 1854 Plan of the Town of La Pointe with Judge Bell’s Block 35 and four small Lots.
~ Wisconsin Historical Society

Julius Austrian’s deed to Judge Bell identified the four small Lots on Judge Bell’s Block 35:
“[…] except a small portion in the North West Corner claimed and enclosed by Edwin Connor, and so much of the South West Corner as is claimed by P. B. Vanderventer, and the enclosure of Barboo & Meletle in the South East Corner”

“The old man always liked to have things done on the square, so when Julius Austrian was platting the village of La Pointe and proposed to Mr. Bell to give him the block he already occupied for a nominal consideration, Mr. Bell insisted that his block, number thirty-five, be exactly square – all the four streets crossing at right angles.  A square block or lot was quite a novelty where each squatter’s garden-patch had been fenced in and called a lot, regardless of street lines or quantity of land.”

Memoirs of Doodooshaaboo: Joseph Austrian’s Time at La Pointe 1851-52 (Pt. 2)

“Our blind brother Marx Austrian with brother Julius’ assistance at that time, preempted 160 acres of land near Bayfield from La Point, complying with preemption laws.  He built a small log house living there with his wife.  One night during their first winter in their new house, there was a knock at the door, and when opened they were confronted by a number of Indians, who were evidently under the influence of liquor and who swinging their tomahawks vigorously, making all sorts of threatening demands.  An old Indian who knew Marx interceded and enabled him and his wife to escape without injury who thoroughly scared fled panic stricken in the dark about two miles at night, over the ice, on the Bay which was covered with a foot of snow to La Point for safety.  The poor woman having the hazardous task of leading her blind husband over this long and difficult road, not to come back again and glad to escape with their lives and thus abandoning their right of preemption.  This place was later on platted and is now known as the Bayfield Addition.”

Mr. Bell was an acute judge of human nature, and made it an invariable rule to deal with his fellowmen according to each one’s individual peculiarity.  Before Bayfield was located, or in fact thought of as a town site, a Hebrew by the name of Marx Austrian pre-empted the 126 acres of land now known as Austrian’s clearing, and which adjoins Bayfield on the south.  After a short residence upon the claim Mr. Austrian’s family became sick, and in order that proper care might be given them they were compelled to move to La Pointe, where a physician could be had.  A speculator, noticing the apparent irregularity, tried to jump the claim.  The case was taken to Superior for trial, and Mr. Bell, being the only available witness, the Austrian brothers and Louis Leopold proposed to give him a one-fourth interest in the land as compensation for making the trip to Superior.  Mr. Bell accordingly accompanied the party, to Superior, and on arriving at the hotel as was his custom, he immediately began to make himself at home with the guests of the house, most of whom he was well acquainted with.  At length when the case was called, Mr. Bell seemed so entirely unconcerned that he was urged to come forward by some one of the interested parties; but Mr. Bell carelessly said,

“Oh! I believe I will not attend court today.”

Julius Austrian
~ Madeline Island Museum

The Austrians wildly expostulated, and at last agreed to pay all the old “Judge’s” expenses for the trip, besides giving him a one-fourth interest in the 126 acres of land.  This brought him all right and Marx Austrian gained his point.  A few years later, when the town of Bayfield was laid out by the Hon. Henry M. Rice, the Austrians, Julius and Marx, concluded that they ought to buy back the one-fourth interest in the 126 acres held by “Squire” Bell, and accordingly Julius approached him on the subject.  Mr. Bell was a man of few words and no give-in to his dictum.  He told Austrian that $1,000 would buy his interest if taken by noon the next day. Austrian claimed the price was exorbitant but finally went off to get the cash.  on the morrow at noon, or a few minutes before, Austrian called on Bell and said he could only give him $800.  Mr Bell insisted on $1,000, which Julius Austrian finally agreed to pay;

“but,” says Mr. Bell, “now you are too late.  It is fully a minute past the time which I specified, now I will not take less than $1,250, and that must be forthcoming within two hours from now.”

Photograph of Hannah Leopold Austrian from the Madeline Island Museum.

Hannah Leopold Austrian
~ Madeline Island Museum.

This time Austrian kept away, thinking Mr. Bell would go back to his $1,000 offer if he did not seem too anxious.  In that Mr. Austrian misjudged his man, for when Austrian again approached the “squire” his price was $1,500 spot cash.  Things now looked dubious to the Austrians, a conference was held with Mrs. Hannah Austrian and together they raised $1,300, all the cash which was available at that moment.  This they handed over to Mr. Bell with a sight due bill for $200, secured by a deposit of all Mrs. Austrian’s jewels, including her diamond earrings.  They got back the one quarter interest in the 126 acres, and they have paid taxes on it ever since, yet the whole is hardly worth now what the quarter cost them.

“This recalls an incident back in ’61 or ’62,” said one of the jurymen at a recent trial in this city.  “It was a case against a trader who was accused of selling whiskey to an Indian.  The jury was drawn, and after hearing the evidence they retired to a back room to determine on a verdict.  It was about four o’clock in the afternoon.  At six o’clock the jury was about evenly divided.  About midnight, after continuous balloting, the vote stood ten for acquittal and two for conviction.  There  was no fire in the room, and it was very cold.  The ten jurors who stood for acquittal made one final request to the other two to vote with them, but they persistently refused.  The ten then got a long pine board and laying it across two stools proceeded to play an interesting game of freeze-out.  About two o’clock one of the two came over on the other side and joined the rest in the game of freezing out the other juror.  At three o’clock in the morning he gave up.”

To be continued…

Photo taken by David Trudeau at Ruelle Chagouamigon, 2019.

A Street named for Chequamegon in Montreal.

Guest post by David Trudeau

French North America at the dawn of the 18th century was a vast network of French and Indigenous trading outposts spanning the entire Mississippi and St. Lawrence-Great Lakes watersheds with Montreal as its main hub. Chequamegon was a part of that network, and so notable, that a street in old Montreal was called “Rue Chagouamigon.”

Model of Rue Chagouamigon circa 1700. Photo taken by David Trudeau at the Pointe-à-Callière Museum, 2019.

Madeline Island is approximately 1200 miles from Montreal, a journey of about 6 hours by plane — or one of up to two months by canoe and portage across Superior and Huron and down the Ottawa river. In the days of the voyageurs, the trip of trade goods to Lapointe and the return trip to Montreal of bundled beaver pelts was typically a once a season event. Circa 1700 “Chagouamigon” was a well enough known place in old Montreal to merit a street name.

Map of Montreal’s fur trade routes circa late 1600s. Photo taken by David Trudeau at the Pointe-à-Callière Museum, 2019.

The place name is French spelling of the Ojibwe term for “soft beaver dam”1 and a reference to Chequamegon point, so named by a local Ojibwe legend about a giant beaver dam (Long Island) and how the Apostle Islands archipelago was created. Was the name of the street whimsically chosen because of its beaver reference or was it more likely a reference to a place becoming well known to the fur trade. Today the street still exists in the in Vieux-Montreal, the old town. Time has changed its route to a mere one block, and it is now known as a “Ruelle,” a little street. There is a special mention of Ruelle Chagouamigon in the Pointe-à-Callière Museum, built on and incorporating the archaeologic remains of Ville-Marie, the beginnings of Montreal started in 1642.

Model of Ville Marie circa 1643. Photo taken by David Trudeau at the Pointe-à-Callière Museum, 2019.

Photo of wife taken by David Trudeau at Ruelle Chagouamigon, 2019.

As I visited the Pointe-à-Callière in May of 2019, researching and learning about my French colonial ancestors who were among Montreal’s founders, I was thrilled to find the exhibit showing the street. I was equally thrilled to walk right up to it as it exists today, and take a photo of my wife Karen on the street. Karen is not a big person, but the tiny narrow street makes her look enormous.

Excavated timbers beneath the Pointe-à-Callière Museum. Photo taken by Amorin Mello, 2023.

Montreal began as a mission outpost, Ville-Marie, founded in 1642 by a lay missionary society, with the objective of building a hospital to care for Indigenous people, and establishing a mission. Many of the missions early contacts and converts were Algonquin speakers. The excavations inside the museum show original posts and timbers of Ville-Marie likely laid out by carpenter Gilbert Barbier, my 8x great grandfather.2

Ville-Marie’s existence was touch and go because of constant predation by Mohawk Haudenosaunee. By 1685, Ville-Marie was home to some 600 colonists, most of them living in modest wooden houses. Ville-Marie became a centre for the fur trade and a base for further exploration3. Etienne Truteau, my 7x great grandfather, arrived in 1659, and had 13 sons with his wife Adrianne Barbier. Many of their boys worked the fur trade routes when they were younger – usually from age 15 to 25. They saved up and bought land and married about age 25.

Ruelle Chagouamigon has been in existence as early as early as 1683, since it appears in the description of a concession granted to a certain Martin Massé, on March 8, 1683.”
~ Quebec Commission de Toponymie
“At the time, there were two other small streets, Michilimakinac and Outaouaise, whose names are associated with the fur trade. In the mid-1710’s, the civil, military and seigneurial authorities wanted to put an end to the significant disorders of this area and better protect this part of the city. Some streets were removed (including a street nicknamed the ‘Street of Hell’), while others were moved or extended.”
~ Montreal.ca
A 1909 insurance map of Montreal shows several fur trading businesses still thriving on and around Ruelle Chagouamigon as late as the 20th century.
~ WalkMontreal.com

Their son, my 6x great grandfather Pierre, spent 10 years contracted between Montreal, Mackinac and Green Bay. On July 31, 16884, Pierre Truteau dit Barbier (1669-1740), the second son of Etienne, joined Nicolas Perrot for the Outaouais (Ottawa), which probably led him to Baie des Puants (Green Bay, Wisconsin)5. Alone or with other companions, over the next decade, Pierre contracted no less than seven times to equip himself for trading, going to the Maskutins (Sac) of western Lake Michigan, the Huron of Lake Huron and the Ottawa at Michilimackinac. He abandoned the fur trade in 1698 to marry and cultivate the land of his grandfather Gilbert Barbier at Côte Saint-François (Longue-Pointe).6 His nephew Toussaint (1716-1782), a blacksmith and cutter by trade, committed for a period of  three years in 17367 to Messrs De la Ronde and Guillory, to go to the post of “Chagouamigon” and help paddle a canoe of trade goods up to the De la Ronde post on Madeline Island and bring it down again loaded with furs. He traveled again in 17488 for the society of Sieurs De Clignancourt, L’Échelle and Monière, on Lake Michigan, namely to the post at Baie des Puants, as part of a group of thirty-eight men in six canoes.9

Google Map of Ruelle Chagouamigon and the Pointe-à-Callière Museum in Vieux-Montréal.

La ruelle Chagouamigon (Ebook)
Histoire de Montréal: édition 375e anniversaire de la fondation de Montréal by Yvon Codère, 2016.

Today Montreal is a huge metro area, but in its oldest part there is a tiny street, a block long and so narrow that it is restricted from cars and trucks. The street commemorates Montreal’s historic connections to Chequamegon Bay. And as a personal note, there are also traces there of my French ancestors who arrived almost 400 years ago, some of whom made the long paddle with many portages up the Ottawa and across the great lakes to Madeline Island. They were able to do so only because their friends and trading partners, the Algonkian peoples, showed them the way to survive on the journey, and provided them with food and canoes. I find it amazing that I live in the Chequamegon Bay area and share a surname with long ago Montreal ancestors who are connected to a tiny street there named for the area I call home.

Ruelle Chagouamigon after being completely excavated for archaeological research and rebuilt.  Photo taken by Francis Hervieux of the Pointe-à-Callière Museum in 2025.

—————

1 https://chequamegonhistory.com/about/.

2 Dollier de Casson, François (1636-1702) A History of Montreal 1640—1672 from the French of Dollier de Casson, translated and edited with a Life of the Author by Ralph Flenly, 1928.  London & Toronto, J. M. Dent & sons, Ltd.; New York, E. P. Dutton & co. p. 103.

3 Miquelon, Dale. “Ville-Marie (Colony)“. The Canadian Encyclopedia. Archived from the original on December 3, 2013. Retrieved 22 October 2025.

4 Notary Antoine Adhémar, Library and Archives nationales du Québec (BANQ).

5 Claude Perrault “PERROT, NICOLAS”, in Dictionary of Canadian Biography, vol. 2, Laval University / University of Toronto, 2003.

6 Louise Trudeau “The History Page” Voyageur Sons Le Charpente December Volume 10 No 3, 2017.

7 Notary François Le Pallieur, Minute # 1022, Library and Archives nationales du Québec (BANQ).

8 Notary Louis-Claude Danré of Blanzy, BANQ.

9 Notary Louis-Claude Danré of Blanzy, BANQ.

Collected & edited by Amorin Mello

This post is the second of a series featuring newspaper items about La Pointe’s infamous Judge John William Bell. Today we explore obituaries of Judge Bell that described his life at La Pointe.  Future posts of this series will feature articles about the late Judge Bell written by his son-in-law George Francis Thomas née Gilbert Fayette Thomas a.k.a G.F.T.

… continued from King of the Apostle Islands.

 


 

Wisconsin State Journal
Saturday, December 31, 1887, Page 1

King of the Apostle Islands No More

ASHLAND, Wis., Dec. 31. – Judge Bell, known far and wide as “King of the Apostle Islands,” died yesterday.  For nearly half a century he governed what was practically a little monarchy in the wilderness.  He was 83 years old, and was the oldest living settler on the historic spot where Marquette founded his mission, two hundred years ago.

 


 

The Saint Paul Globe
Saturday, December 31, 1887, Page 1

KING OF THE ISLANDS.

Judge Bell,
“King of the Apostle Islands,”
Has Given Up His Crown.

The Oldest Living Pioneer
of the Historic Spot
Dies in Apparent Poverty,

Special to the Globe.

Judge Bell’s “special” obituaries were published nationwide including Boston, New Orleans, and San Francisco.

San Francisco Examiner
Wednesday, January 3, 1888, Page 2

ASHLAND, Wis., – “The king of the Apostle islands” is dead.  He passed away at an early hour this morning at La Pointe, on Madeline, the largest of the group, where he has lived for forty-four years, the oldest living pioneer of the historic spot where Pere Marquette founded his little Indian mission 200 years ago.  Judge Bell was a character in the early history of the Lake Superior region, known far and wide as the “king” of the country known as La Pointe, which was organized in 1846 by Judge Bell.  The area of the country was as large as many states of the Union, its borders including nearly all of Wisconsin north of the Chippewa river, the Apostle islands and to an almost

ENDLESS DISTANCE WEST.

Wisconsin Historical Society’s copy of Lyman Warren’s 1834 “Map of La Pointe” from the American Fur Company Papers at New York Historical Society.

The population of whites consisted only of a small handful of French voyagers, traders and trappers, most of whom rendezvous at La Pointe.  The country was hardly known by the state, and Bell’s county was practically a young monarchy.  He bossed everything and everybody, but in such a way that every Indian and every white was his friend and follower.  Judge Bell came here in 1832, from Canada, in the employ of the American Fur company, which at that time was a power here.  He had rarely left the island, except in years gone by to make occasional pilgrimages through the settlements.  During his eventful life he held every office in the county, and for many years, served as county judge.  He was a man of great native ability, possessed of a courage that controlled the rough element which surrounded him in the early days when there was no law except his will. He was honest, fearless,

A NATURAL-BORN RULER

Fargo Daily Argus
Sunday, January 1, 1888, Page 1

of men, and through his efforts the poor and needy were cared for, and in no instance did he fail to befriend them.  For this reason among those who survive him, and who lived in the good old pioneer days, all were his firm friends.  His power departed only when the advance guard of civilization reached the great inland sea, through the medium of the iron horse, and opened a new era in the history of the new Wisconsin.  For many years he has been old and feeble and has suffered for the comforts of life, having become a charge upon the town.  He squandered thousands for the people and died poor but not friendless.  He was eighty-three years of age.

 


 

The Ashland News
Wednesday, January 4, 1888, Page 7

ANOTHER PIONEER GONE

DEATH OF “SQUIRE” BELL, “THE KING OF LAPOINTE.”

Sketch of the Life of the Oldest Settler in the Lake Superior Region.

He comes to La Pointe With John Jacob Astor for the American Fur Co.

Judge John W. Bell died Friday morning at seven o’clock at his home at La Pointe, on Madeline Island, aged eighty-four years.

1847 PLSS survey map detailing the mouth of Iron River at what is now Silver City, Michigan along the east entrance to the Porcupine Mountains.

John W. Bell was born in New York City on May 3, 1803, and was consequently eighty-four years and seven months old.  He learnt the trade of a cooper, and in this capacity in the year 1835, he came to the Lake superior country for the United States Fur company. He first settled at the mouth of Iron river, in Michigan, about twenty miles west of Ontonagon.  Here, at that time, was one of the principal trading and fishing posts of the American Fur company, La Pointe being its headquarters.  Remaining at Iron river for a few years, he came to La Pointe about 1840, where he continued to reside till the time of his death.

1845 United States map by John Dower, with the northernmost area of Wisconsin Territory that became La Pointe County.

At the time he came upon this lake its shores were an unbroken wilderness.  At the Sault was a United States fort, but from the foot of Lake Superior to the Pacific ocean, no white settlement existed.  The American and Northwest Fur companies were lords of this vast empire, and their trading posts and a few mission stations connected with them, held control.  A small detachment of United States soldiers formed the distant outposts of Ft. Snelling.  The state of Wisconsin had not been organized.  No municipal government existed upon this lake.  It was many years before Wisconsin was organized.

1845 United States map by J. Calvin Smith, with the original 1845 boundaries of La Pointe County added in red outline.

La Pointe County was created in 1845 as the northernmost part of Wisconsin Territory above this boundary line:
“beginning at the mouth of Muddy Island river [on the Mississippi River], thence running in a direct line to Yellow Lake, and from thence to Lake Courterille, so to intersect the eastern boundary line at that place, of the county of St Croix, thence to the nearest point on the west fork of Montreal river, thence down said river to Lake Superior.”

Finally the county of La Pointe was formed, embracing all Wisconsin bordering upon the lake and extending to town forty north.  “Squire Bell,” as he was always called, became one of the county as well as town officers of the town and county of La Pointe, and for more than thirty years continued to hold office, being at different times chairman of supervisors, register of deeds, justice of the peace, clerk of the circuit court and county judge.  This last office he held for many years.

He was a man of genial nature and robust frame.  About four years ago, while in Ashland he fell and fractured his thigh, and was never able to walk again.  His sufferings from this accident were great and his pleasant face was never seen again in Ashland.  He enjoyed the esteem and friendship of his neighbors, so far as is known without exception.  He was clear headed and of commanding appearance.  His influence among the Indians and the French who for many years were the only inhabitants in the country was very great, and continued to the last.  For years his dictum was the last resort for the settlement of the quarrels in this primitive community, and it seems to have been just and satisfactory.  He was often called “The King of La Pointe,” and for years no one disputed his supremacy.

Dr. Edwin Ellis, of this city, said in speaking of the dead old pioneer:

“Thus one by one the early settlers are passing away, and ere long an entirely new generation will occupy the old haunts.  He will rest upon the beautiful isle overlooking Chequamegon bay, where the landscape has been familiar to him for more than a generation.  We a little longer linger on the shores of time, waiting the summons to cross the river.  While we consign the body of an old friend to the earth we will in all heartfelt sorrow say: ‘Requiescat in Pace.'”

 


 

Superior Times
Saturday, January 7, 1888, Page 2

The Lake Superior Monarch

Judge Bell, the ‘king of the Apostle islands,’ who died the other day on Madeline Island at the age of eighty-three, was a conspicuous character in the early history of the Lake Superior region.  He was the “king” of the county known as La Pointe, which was organized in 1846 by himself.  The county was as large as many states of the Union, its borders including nearly all of Wisconsin north of the Chippewa river, the Apostle islands, and to an almost endless distance west.  The white population consisted of a handful of French voyagers, traders and trappers, most of whom made their rendezvous at La Pointe.  The country was hardly known by the state, and Bell’s realm was practically a little monarchy.  He “bossed” everything and everybody, but in such a way that every Indian and every white was his friend and follower.  Judge Bell rarely left the island except to make occasional pilgrimages through the settlements.  During his eventful life he held every office in the county, and of late years had served as county judge.  He was a man of great native ability, and was possessed of a courage that controlled the rough element that surrounded him in the early days when there was no law except his will.  He was an honest, fearless, natural-born ruler of men.  Through his efforts the poor and needy were cared for.  His power departed only when the advanced guard of civilization reached the great inland sea.  For many years he had been feeble, and of late had become a charge upon the town.  He spent thousands upon the people.

 


 

To be continued in Fooled the Austrian Brothers

Collected & edited by Amorin Mello

Previously we featured 1837 Petitions from La Pointe to the President about $100,000 Payments to Chippewa Mixed-Bloods from the 1837 Treaty of Saint Peters, and 1838 more Petitions from La Pointe to the President about relocating the Payments from St. Croix River to Lake Superior.  Those earlier Petitions were from Chief Buffalo and dozens of Mixed-Bloods from the Lake Superior Chippewa Bands, setting precedence for La Pointe to host the 1842 Treaty and 1854 Treaty in later decades.

Today’s post features 1839 Petitions against Payments at La Pointe.  These petitioners appear to be looking to get a competitive edge against the American Fur Company monopoly at La Pointe, by moving the payments south across the Great Divide into the Mississippi River Basin.  

For more information about the $100,000 Payments at La Pointe in 1839, we strongly recommend Theresa M. Schenck’s excellent book All Our Relations: Chippewa Mixed-Bloods and the Treaty of 1837.

 



Letters Received by the Office of Indian Affairs:

La Pointe Agency 1831-1839

National Archives Identifier: 164009310



 

April 9, 1839
from Joseph Rolette at Prairie du Chien
to the Superintendent of Indian Affairs
Received April 27, 1839

 

Prairie du Chiene 9th April 1839

T.H. Crawford Esq’r
Commissioner of Ind’n affairs
Washington

Jean Joseph Rolette (Sr.) originally moved to Prairie du Chien in the early 1800s as a Canadian fur trader where he married into the Mdewakanton Dakota Tribe.  Despite his British military service against the United States in the War of 1812 he remained at Prairie du Chien, partnered with the American Fur Company in 1820, and became a Crawford County Judge in 1821.  In the late 1830s he was bankrupted by the end of the fur trade and was seeking any competitive edge against the American Fur Company.

You must excuse the liberty I take in addressing you once more – presuming you are not well acquainted yet with this Country, I am requested by the Chippewaw half Breeds that remain in this Country, that it is with regret they have heard that the payment allowed to them in the treaty of the 29th July 1837 is to be made on Lake Superior.  They have to State, that it will be impossible for them to reach that place as the American Fur Co. are the only Co. who have vessels on Lake Superior & Notwithstanding they could procure on Passage Gratis on the Lake.

This distance between Sault Ste Mary, and the Mississippi is great and expensive.  They also represent that the half Breeds born on Lake Superior are not entitled to any Share of the money allowed.

Before roads and rails to Lake Superior were built decades later, St. Croix Falls was the northernmost limit of large boats transporting goods from traders at Prairie du Chien and other ports along the Mississippi River.

Whereas if the Payment was made at the Falls of St. Croix, there would be Competition amongst traders, whereas in Lake Superior they can be done none.  They humbly beseech that you will have Mercy on them and not allow them to be deprived by intrigue of the Sum due them.  So Justly to go in other hands but the real owners.

Respectfully
your most obd’t Serv’t

Joseph Rolette

on behalf of the Chippewaw
Half Breeds of
Prairie du Chiens

 



 

June 21, 1839
from the Indian Agent at Saint Peters
via the Governor of Wisconsin Territory
to the Superintendent of Indian Affairs
Received July 16, 1839
Answered July 24, 1839

 

Superintendency of Indn Affairs

for the Territory of Wisconsin

Mineral Point June 20, 1839

Sir,

Henry Dodge
Governor of Wisconsin Territory

I have the honor to transmit, enclosed herewith, three letters from Major Taliaferro, Indian Agent at St Peters, dated 10th, 16th, & 17th inst, with two Indian talks of 3rd & 14th, for the information of the Department.

Very respectfully
Yours obedt sevt

Henry Dodge

Supt Ind Agy

 

T Hartley Crawford Esq

Com. of Indian Affairs

 


 

North Western Agency St Peters
Upper Mississippi June 10th 1839

Governor,

Lawrence Taliaferro
Indian Agent at Fort Snelling

Lawrence Taliaferro was both an Indian Agent and slaveowner, and played an indirect role in the U.S. Supreme Court’s Dred Scott case.
The document from the Chiefs of the St. Croix River Band dated June 4th, 1839 hasn’t been found yet.

I deem it to be most adviseable that the enclosed paper, addressed to the Agent, and Commanding Officer on this Station from the Chippewa Chief “Hole in the Day” should be forwarded to you, the Indians addressing us being within your Excellency’s Superintendency.  It may be well to add that a similar document proceeding from the Chippewa Chiefs of St Croix was on the 4th inst forwarded for the information of the Office of Indian Affairs at Washington.

The consolidation of the two Chippewa Sub Agencies and located at Lapointe, it is feared may lead to rather unpleasant results.  I know the Chippewas well, and may have as much influence with those of the Mississippi particularly as most men, yet were I to say “you are not to have an agent in your Country, and you must go to Lapointe in all time to come for your Annuity, and treaty Stipulations.”  I should not expect to hold their confidence for one day.

With high respect Sir
Your mo obt Serv

Law Taliaferro

Indian Agent
at S. Peters

 

His Excellency

Governor Henry Dodge

Suprt of Indi Affairs

at Mineral Point
For Wisconsin

 

 

North Western Agency S. Peters
Upper Mississippi June 16th, 1839

Governor

I have been earnestly selected by a number of the respectable half breed Chippewas resident, and others of the Mississippi, interested in the $100,000 set apart in the treaty of July 29, 1837 of S. Peters, to ask for such information as to their final disposal of this Sum, as may be in your possession.

The claimants referred to have learned through the medium of an unofficial letter from the Hon Lucius Lyon to H. H. Sibley Esqr. of this Post, that the funds in question as well as the Debts of the Chippewas to the traders was to be distributed by him as the Commissioner of the United States at Lapointe on Lake Superior, and for this purpose should reach that place on or about the 10th of July.  The individuals Seeking this information are those who were were so greatly instrumental in bungling your labours at the treaty aforesaid to a successful issue in opposition to the combinations formed to defeat the objects of the government.

There remains 56,000$ in specie at this post being the one half of the sum appropriated or applicable to the objects in contemplation, and upon which the authorities here have had as yet no official instructions to transfer some special information would relieve the minds of a miserably poor class of people and who fear the entire loss of their just claims.

With high respect, Sir
your mo obt Sevt

Law Taliaferro

Indn Agent

at S. Peters

His Excellency

Gov Henry Dodge

Suprt of Ind. Affairs

for Wisconsin

 


 

North Western Agency S. Peters

Upper Mississippi June 17th 1839

Governor

Peter Patrick Quinn was a Selkirk Settler from the Red River Colony who came to Fort Snelling in 1824, where he became an Indian Agency farmer and interpreter in the Dakota and Chippewa languages.

On the 20th of May past I dispatched Peter Quin Express to the Chippewas of the Upper Mississippi with a letter from Maj D. P. Bushnell agent for this tribe at Lapointe notifying the Indians, and half breeds that they would be paid at Lapointe hereafter, and at an earlier period than the last year.  I informed you of the result of his mission on the 10th inst. enclosing at the same time the written sentiments of the principle Chief for his people.  I now forward by Express a second communication from the Same Source received late last night.  I would make a plain copy, but have not time. So the original is Sent.

In four days there will be a large body of Chippwas here, and they cannot be Stopped.  There are now also 880 Sioux from remote Sections of the Country at this Post and of course we may calculate on some difficulty between these old enemies.  Your presence is deemed essential, or such instructions as may soothe the Angry feelings of the Chippewas, on account of the direction given to their annuity, & treaty Stipulations.

With high respect Sir
Your mo ob Sevt

Law Taliaferro

Indn Agent

at S Peters

 

His Excellency

Governor Henry Dodge

Suprt of Indi Affairs

Mineral Point

 

(NB)  The Chippewas are to be understood as to the point of payment indicated to be the St.Croix, and not the S.Peters, as deemed by the written Talks.  It never could be admited in the present state of the Tribes to pay the Chippewas at this Post, but they might with safety to all parties be paid at or above the Falls of S.Croix, by an agent who they ought to have or some special person assigned to this duty.

 

 

Elk River, June 3rd 1839

Maj Toliver.  Maj Plimpton.

“Toliver” is how the surname Taliaferro was pronounced in this part of the world at that time.
“Plimpton” was Joseph Plympton, the Commander at Fort Snelling, who was accused of using his position in the military to illegally grab lands from settlers.
“Pah-ko-ne-ge-zeck or Hole in the Day” was Bagon-giizhig the Elder from the Mississippi River Band of Ojibwe.  He was an uncle of Antoine Gordon.  Photographs of “Hole In The Day” are his son Bagon-giizhig the Younger (Antoine Gordon’s cousin) in later decades.

My respects to you both, and my hand: I am to let you know that I intend to pay you a visit, with my chiefs as braves, the principle of my warriors are verry anxious to pay you a visit.

The above mentioned men are verry anxious to see Gov. Dodge with whom we made the treaty, that we may have a talk with him.  It was with him commissioner of the United-States we made the treaty, and we are verry much disappointed to hear the newes, we hear this day (IE that we must go to Lake Sup. for our pay) which we have this day decided we will not do; that we had rather die first: it is on this account we wish to pay you a visit, and have a talk with Gov. Dodge.  You sir, Maj Toliver know verry well our situation, and that the distance is so great for us to go to Lake Sup. for to get our pay &c. or even a gun repaired; that it is inconsistent for such a thing to be required of us; even if we did literally place the matter in the hands of Government.  We are all living yet that was present at the treaty when we ceded the land to the Unitedstates, and remember well what was our understanding in the agreement.

We now wish Maj Toliver; to mention to your children that it is a fals report that we had any intention to have more difficulty with the Sioux, as our Missionaries can attest as far as they understand us.  We will be at the Fort in seventeen days to pay you a friendly visit as soon as we received the news; we sent expressed to our brethren to meet us at the mouth of Rum Riv. and accompany us to the Fort.

It is my desire that Maj Plimpton would keep fast hold of the money appropriated for my children the half breeds, in this section, and not let it go to Lake Sup. as they are like ourselves and it would cost them a great deal to go there for it.

Pah-ko-ne-ge-zeck or Hole in the Day

 

Maj Toliver
Maj Plimpton

 

 

Elk River June 14 1839

Maj L. Toliphero,

My hand, It is twelve dayes since we have the newes and are all qouiet yet.  My father I shall not forget what was promiced us below, I think of what you promiced us when you were buing our lands.

My father this is the thing that you & we me to take care of when you bougt our lands & I remember all that you said to me.  My father I am the cheif of all the Indians that sold there land and this is the time when all of your children are coming down to receive their payment where you promiced to pay us.

My father I am the cheif and hold the paper containing the promices that you made us.  The Gov. D. promised us that in one year from the date of the treaty that we should receive our first payment and so continue anually.

My father; I have done for manny years what the white men have told me and have done well, and now I must look before we are to know what I have to do.

When I buy anything I pay immediately the Great Spirit knows this Now when we get below we are expecting all that you promiced us Ministers and Black Smiths and cattle.

I say my father that we want our payment at St Peters where you promiced us.  I said that I wanted the half breeds to be payed there with us.  I told you that when the half breeds were payed that there was some French that should have something ((ie) of the half breed money) because they had lived with us for many years and allways gave us some thing to eat when we went to their houses.

My father all of your children are displeased because you are to pay us in another place and not at St Peters it is to hard and far for us to be payed at Lapointe.

My father I did not know that the payment was to be made at Lapointe until we heard by Mr Quin.

My father it is so far to Lapointe that we should lose all of our children before we could get their and if we should brake our Gun we may throw it in the water for we cannot go there to get it mended, and if we have a [illegible] holding a coppy of the Treaty in his hand

Black Smith we want him here and not at Lapoint.

My father I want that you should tell me who it was told you that we all wanted our payment at Lapoint.  All of the Cheifs are alive that hear what you said to us below.  You Mr Toliphero hear me ask Gov Do’ for an Agen and to have him located here and he promiced that it should be so.  I want that the Agent should be here because our enemies come here sometimes and if he was here perhaps they would not come.  My father we are all of us very sorry that we did not ask you to come and be our Agent.  I don’t know who made all of the nois about our being payed at Lapoint.  I don’t look above where we should all starve for our payment but below where the Treaty was made.

My father give my compliments to all of the officers at the Fort.

Hole in The Day X

 

Maj L Toliphereo

Collected & edited by Amorin Mello

While researching original land records around Lake Superior, I stumbled upon a curious deed recorded at Sault Ste Marie during the final days of Michigan Territory before statehood commenced in 1837.

 



Saulte Ste Marie, Michigan Territory

Chippewa County

Register of Deeds

Book 1 of Deeds, Pages 64-65


George Johnston was a Chippewa mixed blood of the Sault Ste Marie Band, was a son of a British fur trader, and was formerly employed as Indian Sub-Agent at La Pointe.
James Lawrence Schoolcraft was a brother of the famous Indian Agent Henry Rowe Schoolcraft.  Both of the Schoolcraft brothers were married to Johnston’s sisters.
Louis Deserving (Desonier) of Penetanguishene was a Canadian Voyageur and veteran from the War of 1812 against the United States.
The preceding deed from Desognier to Johnston in 1836 transferred across the border from America to Canada and back to America again.

Know all men by these presents, that I George Johnston of Saul Ste Marie, Michigan, for and in consideration of the sum of one hundred and twelve dollars and fifty cents, lawful money of the United States of American, to me in hand paid by James L Schoolcraft the receipt whereof is hereby acknowledged, do hereby and by these presents, absolutely and completely sell and convey unto James L Schoolcraft afore said, his heirs and assigns, all my right, title interest and claim in, and to the equal and undivided half of a certain property, being and situate at the Demoins rapids, between the Demoines and Mississippi rivers, the same being a certain portion of lands reserved for the Sac & Fox half breeds, by a treaty concluded at the city Washington, on the fourth day of August in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and twenty four, which half breed claim was on the fifteenth day of February A.D. one thousand eight hundred and thirty six sold and conveyed to me in full by a deed from Louis Desognier, of the town of Penetanguishene, in the Home District, Province of Upper Canada, And for him said Schoolcraft, his heirs and executors and administrators, to have and to hold the said equal and undivided half of said premises forever, and I the said George Johnston for myself and my heirs, do by these presents agree to warrant and defend the title of said premises to said Schoolcraft and his heirs forever.

George Johnston

In witness whereof I have set my hand and seal on this Twenty second day of December in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and thirty six.

George Johnston {S}

In presence of }

John M Hulbert }

County of Chippewa }
State of Michigan }

On the 24th day of December in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and thirty six, before me Gabriel Franchère, one of the Justices of the peace for said County, personally came George Johnston, known to me as the same person, who signed and sealed the within instrument, and acknowledged the same to be his voluntary act and deed for the purposes therein mentioned.

In testimony whereof and being requested I hereunto subscribe my name and affix my seal on the day and year above written.

Gabriel Franchère {S}

———

January 10th 1837
A true copy from original

S R Wood

Register



 

Johnston along with his siblings and in-laws have written a wealth of interesting documents about the United States’ Indian Affairs with the Lake Superior Chippewa, such as the 1842 Lac Du Flambeau Reservation Boundaries.  What makes this deed in today’s post especially interesting is how it involves land in Iowa reserved for Mixed Bloods from a different Tribe beyond the Lake Superior basin:

1824 Sauk & Fox Treaty at Washington, D.C.

ARTICLE 1st.

The Sock and Fox tribes or nations of Indians, by their deputations in council assembled, do hereby agree, in consideration of certain sums of money, &c. to be paid to the said Sock and Fox tribes, by the Government of the United States, as hereinafter stipulated, to cede and for ever quit claim, and do, in behalf of their said tribes or nations, hereby cede, relinquish, and forever quit claim, unto the United States, all right, title, interest, and claim, to the lands which the said Sock and Fox tribes have, or claim, within the limits of the state of Missouri, which are situated, lying, and being, between the Mississippi and Missouri rivers, and a line running from the Missouri, at the entrance of Kansas river, north one hundred miles to the Northwest corner of the state of Missouri, and from thence east to the Mississippi. It being understood, that the small tract of land lying between the rivers Desmoin and the Mississippi, and the section of the above line between the Mississippi and the Desmoin, is intended for the use of the half-breeds belonging to the Sock and Fox nations; they holding it, however, by the same title, and in the same manner, that other Indian titles are held.

Map of the Tract of Land Reserved for the ‘Half-Breeds’ of the Sacs and Foxes in of Iowa
“This map is further titled ‘Land given by the Sacs and Foxes to the Half-Breeds of their tribe.’ This map also shows Fort Desmoines and portions of the Des Moines River and the Mississippi River.”
~ National Archives (NAID: 232924203)

This so-called Iowa Half Breed Tract of 119,000 acres was originally reserved from sale and set aside for the mixed blood relations of Sauk & Fox nations to occupy, and individuals were prohibited from buying or selling any of this land.  However, Congress removed this restriction in 1834, allowing individuals to buy and sell the land, which then fell out of tribal control into the hands of squatters and speculators.  For more information, I recommend the May 2019 thesis “Half-breeds,” squatters, land speculators, and settler colonialism in the Des Moines-Mississippi confluence by Matthew Hill at University of Northern Iowa.

Long story short: At face value this deed appears to be completely unrelated to Chequamegon History, yet contains many familiar topics.  Johnston’s understanding of Treaty promises to Tribal Mixed Bloods broken by the United States, and Johnston’s influence at later Treaty negotiations between the Lake Superior Chippewa and the United States may never been fully known, but are questions that deserve to be asked.

Join Chequamegon History author Amorin Mello as part of  a distinguished schedule of speakers July 12th on the Island.  It should be a great time!

Join Amorin Mello at the Bayfield Heritage Association for a fun afternoon exploring maps and stories about Ancient Trails and Ghost Towns before the City of Washburn was founded in 1883.

2pm Sunday April 27, 2025 at the Bayfield Heritage Association.

Sponsored by the Apostle Islands Historic Preservation Conservancy.

Collected & edited by Amorin Mello

Bishop Irenaeus Frederic Baraga
~ Madeline Island Museum

This post features oral legends recorded about two of Bishop Irenaeus Frederick Baraga’s traverses from La Pointe across Lake Superior:

A) to Minnesota’s Cross River by canoe.
B) to Michigan’s Ontonagon River by ice.

In chronological order of publication, the first record was from a German traveloguer, the next two were from Catholic missionaries, and the last two were from Bad River tribal members.

  1. Kitchi-Gami, by Johann Georg Kohl, 1859/1860.
  2. Life and Labors of Bishop Baraga, by Rev. Chrysostom Verwyst, 1896.
  3. Life and Labors of Rt. Rev. Frederick Baraga, by Rev. Verwyst, 1900.
  4. Chippewa Indian Historical Project, by United States WPA, 1936-1942.
  5. Chippewa Indian Historical Project, by United States WPA, 1936-1942.

 


 

Originally published in German as
Kitschi-Gami; Oder, Erzählungen Vom Obern See
by Johann Georg Kohl, 1859.

Translated and republished in English as

Kitch-Gami: Wanderings Round Lake Superior,

By Johann Georg Kohl, 1860,

Pages 180-183.

 

Kohl traveled to La Pointe during the Summer of 1855 where he witnessed Chief Buffalo’s death and the 1855 Annuity Payments.

German traveloguer
Johann Georg Kohl

Dubois was apparently a pseudonym in Kohl’s book.  The true identity of this well-known Voyageur gets revealed in our other records.

Du Roy: “Do you known the summer voyage our most reverend friend, your companion, once made in a birch-bark canoe right across Lake Superior?  Ah! that is a celebrated voyage, which everybody round the lake is acquainted with.  Indeed, there is hardly a locality on the lake which is not connected with the history of his life, either because he built a chapel there, or wrote a pious book, or founded an Indian parish, or else underwent danger and adventures there, in which he felt that Heaven was protecting him.

“The aforesaid summer voyage, which I will tell you here as companion to his winter journey, was as follows:

“He was staying at that time on one of the Islands of the Apostles, and heard that his immediate presence was required at one of the little Indian missions or stations on the northern shore of the lake.  As he is always ready to start at a moment, he walked with his breviary in his hand, dressed in his black robe, and with his gold cross fastened on his breast – he always travels in this solemn garb, on foot or on horseback, on show-shoes or in a canoe – he walked, I say, with his breviary in his hand and his three-corned hat on his head, into the hut of my cousin a well-known Voyageur, and said to him: Dubois, I must cross the lake, direct from here to the northern shore.  Hast thou a boat ready?’

‘My boat is here,’ said my cousin, ‘but how can I venture to go with you straight across the lake?  It is seventy miles, and the weather does not look very promising.  No one ever yet attempted this “traverse” in small boats.  Our passage to the north shore is made along the coast, and we usually employ eight days in it.’

‘Dubois, that is too long; it cannot be.  I repeat it to thee.  I am called.  I must go straight across the lake.  Take thy paddle and “couverte,” and come!’  And our reverend friend took his seat in the canoe, and waited patiently till my obedient cousin (who, I grant, opened his eyes very wide, and shook his head at times) packed up his traps, sprang after him and pushed the canoe on the lake.

“Now you are aware, monsieur, that we Indians and Voyageurs rarely make greater traverses across the lake than fifteen miles from cape to cape, so that we may be easily able to pull our boats ashore in the annoying caprices of our weather and water.  A passage of twenty-five or thirty miles we call a ‘grand traverse,’ and one of seventy miles is a impossibility.  Such a traverse was never made before, and only performed this once.  My cousin, however, worked away obediently and cheerfully, and they were soon floating in their nutshell in the middle of the lake like a loon, without compass and out of sight of land.  Very soon, too, they had bad weather.

“It began to grow stormy, and the water rose in high waves.  My cousin remarked that he had prophesied this, but his pious, earnest passenger read on in his breviary quietly, and only now and then addressed a kind word of encouragement to my cousin, saying that he had not doubted his prophecy about the weather, but he replied to it that he was called across the lake, and God would guide them both to land.

“They toiled all night through the storm and waves, and, as the wind was fortunately with them, they moved along very rapidly, although their little bark danced like a feather on the waters.  The next morning they sighted the opposite shore.  But how?  With a threatening front.  Long rows of dark rocks on either side, and at their base a white stripe, the dashing surf of the terribly excited waves.  There was no opening in there, no haven, no salvation.

‘We are lost, your reverence,’ my cousin said, ‘for it is impossible for me to keep the canoe balanced in those double and triple breakers; and a return is equally impossible, owing to the wind blowing so stiffly against us.’

‘Paddle on, dear Dubois – straight on.  We must get through, and a way will offer itself.’

“My cousin shrugged his shoulder, made his last prayers, and paddled straight on, he hardly knew how.  Already they heard the surf dashing near them; they could no longer understand what they said to each other, owing to the deafening noise, and my cousin slipped his couverte from his shoulders, so as to be ready for a swim, when, all at once, a dark spot opened out in the white edge of the surf, which soon widened.  At the same time the violent heaving of the canoe relaxed, it glided on more tranquilly, and entered in perfect safety the broad mouth of a stream, which they had not seen in the distance, owing to the rocks that concealed it.

‘Did I not say, Dubois, that I was called across, that I must go, and that thou wouldst be saved with me?  Let us pray!’ So the man of God spoke to the Voyageur after they had stepped ashore, and drawn their canoe comfortably on the beach.  They then went into the forest, cut down a couple of trees, and erected a cross on the spot where they landed, as a sign of their gratitude.

“Then they went on their way to perform their other duties.  Later, however, a rich merchant, a fur trader, came along the same road, and hearing of this traverse, which had become celebrated, he set his men to work, and erected at his own expense, on the same spot, but on a higher rock, a larger and more substantial cross, which now can be seen a long distance on the lake, and which the people call ‘the Cross of —–‘s Traverse.’

 


 

LIFE AND LABORS OF BISHOP BARAGA

A short sketch of the life and labors of Bishop Baraga

The Great Indian Apostle of the Northwest.

By Rev. Chrysostom Verwyst O.S.F. of Ashland, Wis.

 

Father John Chebul arrived on Lake Superior at the Sault in October 1859 to assist his fellow Slovanian Bishop Baraga.  Chebul spent the winter at Ontonagon with miners before arriving at La Pointe in May 1860.

On another occasion Father Baraga went to Ontonagon from La Pointe.  We will relate the incident as told to the writer by Rev. John Cebul, of Newberry, Mich.  He was well acquainted with Bishop Baraga, being a fellow countryman who had been sent to La Pointe in 1860, where he labored amongst the Chippewas of that island and Bayfield, Bad River Reserve, Superior and other places, for about thirteen years, being universally loved and esteemed by all.  He says:

Baraga’s faithful man from the island is identified as two different men in these stories.
Cadotte point, about 20 or 30 miles from Ontonagon appears to be near the Porcupine Mountains.

Bishop Baraga was intending to go on the ice to Ontonagon.  He was accompanied by a man from the island.  The reason they took to the ice was because it was much nearer and the walking a great deal better than on the main land.  During March and April the ice on Lake Superior becomes honey-combed and rotten.  If a strong wind blows, it cracks and moves from the shore if the wind blows from the land. Such fields of ice does not notice that he is in danger till he comes to the edge of the ice and then to his horror discovers a large expanse of open water between him and the mainland.  Should the ice float out towards the middle of the lake or break up, he is lost.  Father Baraga and his companion had traveled on the ice for some time, thinking all was right.  All at once they came to the edge of the ice and saw it was impossible to reach land, as the wind had driven the ice from the shore out into the Lake.  His companion became greatly alarmed.  Father Baraga remained calm, praying, no doubt, fervently to Him who alone could save them.  Finally the wind changed and drove the cake of ice on which they were floating to the shore.  They landed at Cadotte point, about 20 or 30 miles from Ontonagon, having been carried by the wind on their ice raft about sixty miles.  “See,” said the good priest to his companion, “we have traveled a great distance and yet have not labored.”  It seems the good God wanted to save the saintly missionary a long and painful walk, by giving him a ride of sixty miles on a cake of ice.

 


 

Life and labors of Rt. Rev. Frederic Baraga
by P. Chrysostomus Verwyst, 1900,
pages 219-222.

CHAPTER XXXVI. Wonderful Escape of Father Baraga, When Crossing Lake Superior In A Small Sail Boat.  His Adventure On A Floating Field Of Ice.

Louis Gaudin was one of several legendary children born to Jean Baptiste Gaudin, Sr. and Awenishen (a sister of Hole-in-the-day):
– Antoine Gordon
– Elizabeth (Gordon) Belanger
– Louison Gordon, Sr.
– Harriet (Gordon) Lemon
– John Baptiste Gordon, Jr.
– Angelique Gordon
– Joseph Gordon
Louison Gordon, Sr. (1814-1899) married Julia Brebant, whose sisters were married to Henry Bresette and Judge John W. Bell.
Wizon is an objibwecized form of the francophone name Louison.

Undated photo from the Gordon Museum thought to be a brother of Antoine Gordon:
possibly Louis Gordon?

Chippewa Entrepreneur
Antoine Gordon
~ Noble Lives of a Noble Race (pg. 207) published by the St. Mary’s Industrial School in Odanah, 1909.

We learn from F. Baraga’s letter, written in October, 1845, that he intended to go to Grand Portage, Minn., the next fall to build a church there.  It is, therefore, highly probable that he made that trip in the fall of 1846.  He first went to La Pointe, where, no doubt, he spent some time attending to the spiritual wants of the good people.  He then engaged a half-breed Indian, named Louis Gaudin, to go with him to Grand Portage.  They had but a small fishing boat with a mast and sail, without keel or centre-board.  Such a boat might do on a river or small lake, but would be very unsafe on a large lake, where it would easily founder or be driven lake a cork before the wind.  The boat was but eighteen feet long.  When they started from La Pointe, the people laughed at them for attempting to make the journey.  They said it would take them a month to make the voyage, as they would have to keep close to the shore all the way, going first west some seventy miles to the end of the lake and then, doubling, turn northward, coasting along the northern shore of Lake Superior.  this would make the distance about two hundred miles, perhaps even more.

However, Father Baraga and his guide set out on their perilous journey.  At Sand Island they awaited a favorable wind to cross the lake, which is about forty miles wide at that place.  By so doing they would save from eight to one hundred miles, but would expose themselves to great danger, as a high wind might arise, whilst they were out on the open lake, and engulf their frail bark.

They set sail on an unusually calm day. Father Baraga steered and Louis rowed the boat.  Before they got midway a heavy west wind arose and the lake grew very rough.  They were constantly driven leeward and when they finally reached the north shore they were at least thirty miles east of their intended landing place, having made a very perilous sail of seventy miles during that day.

While in the height of the storm, in mid-ocean, it might be said, Louis became frightened and exclaimed in Chippewa to the Father, who was lying on his back in the boat, reciting his office in an unconcerned manner: “Nosse, ki ga-nibomin, gananbatch” – Father, perhaps we are going to perish!”  The Father answered quietly: “Kego segisiken, Wizon” (Chippewa for Louis) – “Don’t be afraid, Wizon; the priest will not die in the water.  If he died here in the water the people on the other shore, whither we are going, would be unfortunate.”

When nearing the north shore the danger was even greater than out on the open water, for there were huge breakers ahead.  Louis asked the Father whither to steer, and, as if following a certain inspiration, F. Baraga told him to steer straight ahead for the land.  Through a special disposition of Divine Providence watching over the precious life of the saintly missionary, they passed through the breakers unharmed and ran their boat into the mouth of a small river, heretofore unnamed, but now called Cross River.

1859 PLSS detail of trees at the mouth of “Cross River”.

Full of gratitude for their miraculous escape, they at once proceeded to erect a cross.  Hewing a tree in a rough manner, they cut off the top as far up as they could reach, and taking a shorter piece, they nailed it cross-wise to the tree.  “Wizon,” said the Father, “let us make a cross here that the Christian Indians may know that the priest coming from La Pointe landed here.”  The cross was, it is true, unartistic, but it was emblem of their holy faith and it gave the name, Tchibaiatigo-Sibi, “Cross River,” to the little stream where they landed.

They arrived none too soon.  Ascending an eminence and looking out on the immense lake they saw that the storm was increasing every moment; high waves with white caps, which would surely have engulfed their little bark.  They landed about six o’clock in the evening.  Having spent the night there, they continued their journey next day, and in two days arrived at Grand Portage, having made the whole journey in three days.  May we not think with Louis Gaudin that their safe passage across the stormy lake, and their deliverance from a watery grave, was due to a special intervention of Divine Providence in favor of the saintly missionary?

In 1667 Father Claude Allouez, S. J., then stationed at the mission of the Holy Ghost at the head of Chequamegon Bay, made the voyage across the lake from Sand Island.  He made the voyage in a birch-canoe with three Indians.  He remarks that they paddled their canoe all day as hard as they could without intermission, for fear of losing any of the beautiful calm weather they had.  It took them twelve hours to make the trip across.  The Father was then on his way to visit some Christian Indians residing at Lake Nipigon – “Animibigong” in Chippewa.  For the particulars of this journey we refer the reader to “Missionary Labors of Fathers Marquette, Allouez, and Menard in the Lake Superior Region.”

The following narrative is not to be found in any of Baraga’s published letters, but the writers has it from the mouth of trustworthy persons, among whom is Father Chebul, a countryman of F. Baraga, who was stationed at Bayfield for many years.  We will give the account, as we have it from Rev. F. Chebul.

Francois Newago, Sr. is the man named Newagonfrom Madeline Island, as his children were still young teenagers then.

One time F. Baraga was going to Ontonagon in company with an Indian half-breed in the month of March or April.  At that season of the year the ice, though thick, becomes honey-combed and rotten.  Some say that Baraga’s companion was a man named Newagon.  They went on the ice at La Pointe Island.  As the walking on the sandy beach would have been very fatiguing and long, they determined to make straight for Ontonagon over the ice.  By so doing they would not only have better walking, but also shorten their way a great deal.

A strong southwest wind was blowing at the time, and the ice, becoming detached from the shore, began drifting lakeward.  After they had traveled for some time, they became aware of what hat happened, for they could see the blue waters between them and the shore.  Newagon became greatly alarmed, for almost certain death stared them in the face.  Had the wind continued blowing in the same direction, the ice would have been driven far out into the lake and broken up into small fragments.  They would surely have perished.

To encourage the drooping spirit of his companion, F. Baraga kept telling him that they would escape all right and that they must trust in God, their loving Father and Protector.  He also sang Chippewa hymns to divert Newagon’s attention and calm his excitement.  Finally the wind shifted and blew the field of ice back towards the shore.

1847 PLSS detail of brownstone points, village, cross, and trailhead at the mouth of Iron River.

Cadotte Point, near Union Bay
appears to be located at what is now Silver City at the mouth of Iron River and eastern trailhead to the Porcupine Mountains.
Michel Cadotte, Sr. ran a trading post by the Old French Fort on Madeline Island around 1800 and smaller stations scattered along the Wisconsin / Michigan shoreline of Lake Superior.  Cadotte first worked for the British North West Company and later the American Fur Company after The War of 1812.

They landed near Cadotte Point, near Union Bay, a short distance from Ontonagon, which they reached that same day.  “See,” said the missionary to his companion, “we have traveled a great distance and have worked little.”  The distance from La Pointe to Ontonagon is about sixty or seventy miles by an air line.  Had they been obliged to walk the whole distance around the bend of the lake, it would probably have taken them two or three days of very hard and fatiguing traveling.  So what at first seemed to threaten certain death was used by God’s fatherly providence to shorten and facilitate the saintly priest’s journey.

 


 

United States. Works Progress Administration:

Chippewa Indian Historical Project Records 1936-1942  

(Northland Micro 5; Micro 532)

 

Reel 1, Envelop 3, Item 5

BISHOP BARAGA’S TRIP TO ONTONAGON

As related by William Obern to John Teeple.

 

William Henry Obern’s grandparents were
Francois Belanger, Sr.
and Elizabeth (Gordon) Belanger.  The Belanger Settlement was founded by their son Frank Belanger, Jr. and Elizabeth (Morrow) Belanger.

The journey I am about to describe is taken from the many experiences of Bishop Baraga, which were related to me by my grandfather.  It deals with a journey made at an almost impossible time for ice travel on any of the Great Lakes, and portrays the important part the elements can play in a man’s life, for good or bad, for weal or for woe, as well as Bishop Baraga’s unfaltering confidence in Divine Providence.

Baraga’s guide Louis Gordon was Obern’s great-uncle.

The season of the year in which this incident took place was in the spring – along in April.  Bishop Baraga and his faithful guide, Louis Gordon, started from LaPointe enroute to Ontonagon, Michigan, a distance of some eighty or ninety miles from LaPointe, straight across as the crow flies over the frozen water of Lake Superior.  Dogs were used to a very large extent in those days for the purpose of transportation.

On account of the prevailing soft weather, the ice on the lake was not very solid, and with the right kind of wind, a general break-up was apt to occur at any time.  In this instance, when the Bishop and his guide were about ten miles from LaPointe a south-west wind began to blow, increasing in velocity with each passing hour.  The ice broke away from the shore, and began drifting outward into the open waters of Lake Superior, carrying its passengers with it.  The guide, seeing the danger, suggested to the Bishop that they land on one of the islands, but the Bishop told him not to worry and to keep going in the direction of Ontonagon; that with the help of God they would reach their destination in safety.

With the coming of night the wind increased, and the two travelers were drifting out into the open waters with considerable speed.  Soon the mainland was lost to view, and the guide knew that to remain on the ice mean ultimate death by freezing or drowning, but it was too late to do anything now.  They had passed up the opportunity of getting off.

The missionary told Louis to look out for the dogs, and after taking a lunch, he wrapped himself up and went to sleep.  He advised the guide to do likewise.  The guide wrapped himself up, but he did not sleep.  He kept constant vigil; about midnight the wind changed, coming from the opposite direction.

The guide woke Bishop Baraga, telling him that the wind had changed.  The priest asked his guide from what direction it was blowing, and upon being told that it was coming from the north-east remarked, “It is just what I hoped for and suspected.”  He again told his guide to lie down and go to sleep, but the guide fearing that the plate of ice they were on might break up, would not sleep.  They began to drift back almost in the same direction they had come, and when daylight came the outline of the Porcupine Mountains could be plainly seen in the distance.  They were traveling at a very high rate of speed, and about mid afternoon they landed on the south shore of Lake Superior, one mile from Ontonagon, their destination.

“There,” said the bishop after they got off the ice and stepped on to the mainland, “this is just what I expected.”

At the time of this narrative, Ontonagon was a small settlement of Indians with but a few white men, who were engaged in the fur trade with the Indians and represented the American Fur Company.

* According to the description furnished by the guide, the piece of ice they were on was about one hundred by two hundred feet.

 


 

United States. Works Progress Administration:

Chippewa Indian Historical Project Records 1936-1942  

(Northland Micro 5; Micro 532)

 

Reel 1, Envelop 3, Item 6

Cross River

ORIGIN OF THE NAME

Related by William Obern

To John Teeple.

 

The story I am about to relate deals with an incident of one of the many experiences of Bishop Baraga.  The narrative was related to me by my grandmother, Elizabeth Bellanger, who before her marriage was Elizabeth Gordon.  She was a blood relative of Father Philip Gordon. The Gordon family consisted of the parents; sons, John, Louis and Antoine, and daughters My grandmother (Elizabeth) and Angelique.

Louis Gordon acted as the guide and all-around servant of Bishop Baraga, the missionary priest.  The latter had a very large territory to cover; the northern and southern shores of Lake Superior, thence to the Dakotas and down to the waters known as Chippewa River, which emptied into the Mississippi below St. Paul.

Louis Gordon, the guide, (my grand-uncle) told of many of the experiences he had on these trips with Bishop Baraga.  In speaking of my grand-uncle, Louis Gordon, I wish to state first, upon my honor as a gentleman, that he was a Christian in every sense of the word; he never took a drink of intoxicating liquor in his life; and never used profane language.

The stories related to me by my grandmother I well remember, and coming from a man like my grand-uncle, I believe them.

One day Bishop Baraga and his guide, Louis Gordon, started from LaPointe, on the western end of Lake Superior, near the place now known as Bayfield, on the shore of the lake, and about twenty-five miles from the present city of Ashland.  At the time of this incident there were no white settlements to speak of at the western end of Lake Superior and the “head of the lakes” region.  Bayfield, Washburn, Ashland, Superior and Duluth did not exist in those days.  There were few white men among the Indians, and those few represented the American Fur Company.  A few, mostly Frenchmen, had in former years settled in Minnesota and Wisconsin.

As formerly stated the trip started from LaPointe.  It was to be made by water, and the boat used by the missionary and his guide, from the description given, could not have been more than 16 or 18 feet long.  It was just large enough to accommodate the Bishop and his guide and to take care of their camping equipment, and although small, it came out the victor in many storms, proving itself quite seaworthy.  These voyagers had a make-shift sail, which furnished them power when the wind was fair, probably a blanket which was raised on a pole; but in calm weather, or when the seas became too rough, the craft was usually propelled with oars.  Wind and weather conditions in those days controlled lake travel largely, and when the lake became too rough and the seas too choppy, the voyageurs usually made a landing in some bay or stream outlet.

In this instance, the missionary and his guide were headed for Grand Marias, on the north shore of Lake Superior, a distance of fifty or fifty-five miles from the group of islands known as “Apostle Islands.”  Leaving LaPointe, it was necessary for them to cross Lake Superior, traveling directly North.  In the event of a severe storm, there is, of course, no place for shelter in the open waters of Lake Superior, and when once started it was necessary for them to continue their voyage until they reached Grand Marias, the point of their destination.

When the Bishop and his guide were about to leave the Apostle Islands, Louis Gordon, the guide, said to Bishop Baraga: “No-say,” (meaning father in Chippewa), “it would not be safe for us to cross the lake in this small boat today.  The wind is from the south-west, and it is getting stronger.  The lake will become very rough, the seas high, and I am afraid we may perish if we venture out in this wind.  We had better not leave this island today, or else follow the south shore around to the end of the lake, so we can find a place to land should the seas become too rough.”

Bishop Baraga replied, “My son, have faith in God.  Across that lake my Indians are waiting they must be expecting me, and it is my duty to get there as soon as possible.  It would be a waste of time for us to go along the south shore, then along the north shore from the St. Louis River to Grand Marias, when we can cross here and save many miles of hard rowing and precious time.  We will trust in God and make the crossing in safety.”

So, Louis Gordon, having unbounded faith in the Bishop, obeyed him, and they began their voyage across the lake, notwithstanding the fact that the wind was increasing in fury and the seas becoming higher and rougher with each passing moment.  After they got into the open waters, the guide had considerable difficulty in manning the boat and keeping it from being swamped by the breaking seas.  He stood up, and turning to Bishop Baraga said, “No-say, we will never reach the shore.”  The Bishop was sitting at the stern of the boat, reciting his breviary.  “Louis,” he said, “do not lose faith in God; fear not, He is with us.”   The guide was kept busy in keeping the boat in its course, and bailing it out, to prevent it from being filled as the white caps would break over it.  He headed it to a point west of Grand Marias in order that he might be better able to ride the crest of the seas, praying and hoping that when they reached the shore, which he hoped would be before dark, they would find a place to land in safety.

I wish to state here that I have seen the north shore of Lake Superior.  After leaving Duluth, going east along the north shore, one will find a very rugged shore, ledges of rock from 20 to 200 feet in height standing perpendicularly along the shore line.  In these rock ledges are great caves that have been fashioned by angry waves of Lake Superior during centuries.  To fully appreciate this story it is well for the reader to know a little concerning the dangers of Lake Superior.  Salt-water sailors who have been on the five oceans prefer to be on the ocean in a storm rather than on Lake Superior.  The fact that Lake Superior is more dangerous than the oceans is conceded by sailors generally, particularly in the fall of the year.  In the ocean, the billows are longer with great spaces between them; while on Lake Superior they are short, choppy, and heavy; and create much more hazard.

Night overtook the missionary and the guide before they reached the north shore; the wind became stronger and the billows higher.  The only light they had to guide them was the distant glimmer of the stars, and the guide was able to keep his course by keeping his craft nosed in the direction of the North Star.

After many hours of hard pulling on the oars, the guide knew that they were reaching the shore because he was familiar with the shoreline, and knew that the noise which was all but deafening was created by the breakers dashing against the rock-bound shore.

The guide said to his companion, “No-say, we are nearing the shore, but I am sure we are many miles from Grand Marias.  There is no river known in this region and on account of the precipitous formation of the shore line, we have no place to land in safety in this storm.”  Bishop Baraga answered, “My son, do as I say, and we will make a landing in safety.”  The guide obeyed.  His hand were blistered; his strength was leaving his body, but he managed to keep up his struggle against the angry seas.  The back-wash created by the billows dashing against the perpendicular rocks of the shore-line made conditions more perilous.  The guide said, “Father, there is nothing but certain death ahead of us.  We cannot survive this storm.”  The noise was so great that it was impossible for the two voyagers to hear each other without shouting, though they were only fifteen or sixteen feet apart; but the Bishop simply said, “Louis, keep going straight ahead.”

Much water had entered their little boat, and it was coming in faster now that they were nearing the ledges of rocks, and the seas, augmented by the back-wash, were becoming rougher, so that destruction seemed imminent.  Then amid the tumult and tossing of the boat upon the choppy seas, the boat was suddenly driven from the rough sea into tranquil waters, seemingly guided by some supernatural power.  The guide knew that the craft was not being directed by his efforts, and that they were nearing the shore with each sweep of the waves.  To his amazement, the boat grounded, and by feeling the depth of the water with his oar he knew that they were in shallow water, but he was unable to determine whether they were in a cave or at the mouth of some stream.

“Father,” Louis cried delightedly, “it seems to me that we are in a cave or at the mouth of some stream, because by feeling around with my oar I can feel a current coming from the land direction.”  The missionary then told him to take out their bundle, and light the lantern so that they could see where they were and explore their surroundings.

After lighting the lantern, they made a survey of their surroundings and found that they were at the mouth of a large stream.  They climbed out of the river and to higher ground, and there made their camp for the night.

Cross River Historical Marker
Photo by Brian Finstad, 2024.

The following morning, Bishop Baraga told his guide that they would stay there that day, that they would construct and erect a cross in token of thanksgiving to God for his help and guidance to safety.  So, all that day they worked.  They cut down some large cedar trees and erected a large cedar cross, which they set up on the shore at the mouth of the stream.  The next morning Bishop Baraga and his guide went down to the site of the cross they had erected, and again offered thanks to God for their safe deliverance.  The missionary told his guide: “Hereafter this stream shall be known as “Cross River”.  It has been thus known from that time on.

About twenty or twenty-five years ago, a large number of people from Duluth, Superior, and other towns and cities in the Lake Superior region, regardless of creed, made a trip to Cross River and erected a substantial cross there in place of the old cedar cross set up by Bishop Baraga and his guide, Louis Gordon, in thanksgiving to God for the wonderful guidance and loving care of his servants who landed safely at the mouth of this stream after such a perilous voyage.

Louison Gordon, Sr. moved from La Pointe to Red Cliff later in life.

Bishop Baraga stopped at Superior on their way back from the North Shore.  They did not venture another lake-crossing.  This zealous Lake Superior Chippewa Indian Missionary died at Marquette, Michigan, on January 19, 1868.

Cross River Historical Marker
Photo by Brian Finstad, 2024.

Collected & edited by Amorin Mello

This post is the first of a series featuring The Ashland News items about La Pointe’s infamous Judge John William Bell, written mainly by his son-in-law George Francis Thomas née Gilbert Fayette Thomas a.k.a G.F.T.

 


 

Wednesday, September 30, 1885, page 2.

ON HISTORICAL GROUND.

James Chapman
~ Madeline Island Museum

Judge Joseph McCloud
~ Madeline Island Museum

Saturday last, says The Bayfield Press, the editor had the pleasure of visiting Judge John W. Bell at his home at La Pointe, accompanied by Major Wing, James Chapman and Judge Joseph McCloud. The judge, now in his 81st year, still retains much of that indomitable energy that made him for many years a veritable king of the Apostle Islands. Owing, however, to a fractured limb and an irritating ulcer on his foot he is mostly confined to his chair. His recollection of the early history of this country is vivid, while his fund of anecdotes of his early associates is apparently inexhaustible and renders a visit to this remarkable pioneer at once full of pleasure and instruction. The part played by Judge Bell in the early history of this country is one well worthy of preservation and in the hands of competent parties could be made not the least among the many historical sketches of the pioneers of the great northwest. The judge’s present home is a large, roomy house, located in the center of a handsome meadow whose sloping banks are kissed by the waters of the lake he loves so well. Here, surrounded by children and grand-children, cut off from the noise and bustle of the outside world, his sands of life are peacefully passing away.

Leaving La Pointe our little party next visited the site of the Apostle Islands Improvement company’s new summer resort and found it all the most vivid fancy could have painted. Here, also, we met Peter Robedeaux, the oldest surviving voyager of the Hudson Bay Fur Co. Mr. Robedeaux is now in his 89th year, and is as spry as any man not yet turned fifty. He was born near Montreal in 1796, and when only fourteen years of age entered the employ of the Hudson Bay Fur Co., and visited the then far distant waters of the Columbia river, in Washington Territory. He remained in the employ of this company for twenty-five years and then entered the employ of the American Fur company, with headquarters at La Pointe. For fifty years this man has resided on Madeline Island, and the streams tributary to the great lake not visited by him can be numbered by the fingers on one’s hand. His life until the past few years has been one crowded with exciting incidents, many of which would furnish ample material for the ground-work of a novel after the Leather Stocking series style.

 


 

Wednesday, June 30, 1886, page 2.

GOLDEN WEDDING.

About thirty of the old settlers of Ashland and Bayfield went over to La Pointe on Saturday to celebrate the golden wedding anniversary of Judge John W. Bell and wife, who were married in the old church at La Pointe June 26th, 1836, fifty years ago.  The party took baskets containing their lunch with them, the old couple having no knowledge of the intended visit.  After congratulations had been extended the table was spread, and during the meal many reminiscences of olden times were called up.

Mrs. Margaret Bell was a daughter of Alexis Brébant and Angelique Bouvier a.k.a. Waussegundum in the 1826 Treaty of Fond du Lac.

Judge Bell is in his eighty-third year, and is becoming quite feeble.  Mrs. Bell is perhaps ten or twelve years younger.  Judge Bell came to La Pointe in 1834, and has lived there constantly ever since.  La Pointe used to be the county seat of Ashland county, and prior to the year 1872 Judge Bell performed the duties of every office of the county.  In fact he was virtually king of the island.

The visitors took with them some small golden tokens of regard for the aged couple, the coins left with them aggregating between $75 and $100.

 


 

Wednesday, July 20, 1887, page 6.

REMINISCENCES OF OLD LA POINTE

(Written for The Ashland News)

Visitors to this quiet and delapidated old town on Madeline Island, Lake Superior, about whom early history and traditions so much has been published, are usually surprised when told that less than forty years have passed since there flourished at this point a city of about 2,500 people.  Now not more than thirty families live upon the entire island.  Thirty-five years ago neither Bayfield, Ashland nor Washburn was thought of, and La Pointe was the metropolis of Northern Wisconsin.

Since interesting himself in the island the writer has often been asked: Why, if there were so many inhabitants there as late as forty years ago, are there so few now?  In reply a great number of reasons present themselves, chief among which are natural circumstances, but in the writer’s mind the imperfect land titles clouding old La Pointe for the last thirty years have tended materially to hastening its downfall.

Captain John Daniel Angus
~ Madeline Island Museum

Of the historic data of La Pointe, of which the writer has almost an unlimited supply, much that seems romance is actual fact, and the witnesses of occurrences running back over fifty years are still here upon the island and can be depended upon for the truthfulness of their reminiscences.  There are no less than five very old men yet living here who have made their homes upon the island for over fifty years.  Judge John W. Bell, or “Squire,” as he is familiarly called, has lived here since the year 1835, coming from the “Soo,” on the brig, John Jacob Astor, in company with another old pioneer of the place known as Capt. John Angus.  Mr. Bell contracted with the American Fur Co., and Capt. Angus sailed the “Big Sea” over.  Mr. Bell is now eighty three years of age, and is crippled from the effects of a fall received while attending court in Ashland, in Jan. 1884.  He is a man of iron constitution and might have lived – and may yet for all we know – to become a centenarian.  The hardships of pioneer life endured by the old Judge would have killed an ordinary man long ago.  He is a cripple and an invalid, but he has never missed a meal of victuals nor does he show any sign of weakening of his wonderful mind.  He delights to relate reminiscences of early days, and will talk for hours to those who prove congenial.  Once in his career, Mr. Bell had in his employ the famous “Wilson, the Hermit,” whose romantic history is one of the interesting features sought after by tourists when they visit the islands.

“It was in 1846 or 1847 that Robert Stewart, then Commissioner, granted him [Bell] a license, and he opened a trading post at Island River, and became interested in the mines. He explored and struck a lead in the Porcupine Range, on Onion River, which he sold to the Boston Company, and then came back to La Pointe.”
~ History of Northern Wisconsin, by the Western Historical Co., 1881.
Read our Penokee Survey Incidents series about 1850s mining on the Penokee Range.

Once Mr. Bell started an opposition fur company having for his field of operations that portion of Northern Wisconsin and Michigan now included within the limits of the great Gogebic and Penokee iron ranges, and had in his employ several hundred trappers and carriers.  Later Mr. Bell became a prominent explorer, joining numerous parties in the search for gold, silver and copper; iron being considered too inferior a metal for the attention of the popular mind in those days.

Almost with his advent on the island Mr. Bell became a leader in the local political field, during his residence of fifty-two years holding almost continually some one of the various offices within the gift the people.  He was also employed at various times by the United States government in connection with Indian affairs, he having a great influence with the natives.

Ramsay Crooks
~ Madeline Island Museum

The American Fur Co., with Ramsay Crooks at its head gave life and sustenance to La Pointe a half century ago, and for several years later, but when a private association composed of Borup, Oakes and others purchased the rights and effects of the American Fur Co., trade at La Pointe began to fall away.  The halcyon days were over.  The wild animals were getting scarce, and the great west was inducing people to stray.  The new fur company eventually moved to St. Paul, where even now their descendants can be found.

Julius Austrian
~ Madeline Island Museum

Prior to the final extinction of the fur trade at La Pointe and in the early days of steamboating on the great lakes, the members of the well-known firm of Leopold & Austrian settled here, and soon gathered about them a number of their relatives, forming quite a Jewish colony.  They all became more or less interested in real estate, Julius and Joseph Austrian entering from the government at $1.25 per acre all the lands upon which the village was situated, some 500 acres.

Stay turned for future posts that will “examine the records and make a correct abstract or title history of old La Pointe” while it was owned by Julius and Joseph Austrian.

Joseph Austrian
~ Jennifer Barber Family

The original patent issued by the government, of which a copy exists in the office of the register of deeds in Ashland, is a literary curiosity, as are also many other title papers issued in early days.  Indeed if any one will examine the records and make a correct abstract or title history of old La Pointe, the writer will make such person a present of one of the finest corner lots on the island.  Such a thing can not be done simply from the records.  A large portion of the original deeds for village lots were simply worthless, but the people in those days never examined into the details, taking every man to be honest, hence errors and wrongs were not found out.

Now the lots are not worth the taxes and interest against them, and the original purchaser will never care whether his title was good or otherwise.  The county of Ashland bought almost the whole town site for taxes many years ago and has had an expensive load to carry until the writer at last purchased the tax titles of the village, which includes many of the old buildings.  The writer has now shouldered the load, and proposes to preserve the old relics that tourists may continue to visit the island and see a town of “Ye olden times.”

~ The Boscobel Dial
September 29, 1885.

Originally the intention was to form a syndicate to purchase the old town.  An association of prominent citizens of Ashland and Bayfield, at one time came very near securing it, and the writer still has hopes of such an association some day controlling the historical spot.  The scheme, however, has met with considerable opposition from a few who desire no changes to be made in the administration of affairs on the island.  The principal opponent is Julius Austrian, of St. Paul, who still owns one-sixth part of La Pointe, and is expecting to get back another portion of lots, which have been sold for taxes and deeded by the county ever since 1874.  He would like no doubt, to make Ashland county stand the taxes on the score of illegality.  As a mark of affection for the place, he has lately removed the old warehouse which has stood so many years a prominent landmark in La Pointe’s most beautiful harbor.  Tourists from every part of the world who have visited the old town will join in regretting the loss and despise the action.

G. F. T.

 


To be continued in King No More